11) Repeat 9 and 10 with the other two roof panels.

12) Now place the shed floor over the foundation blocks (and slab or pier foundation) checking for level.

13) Begin assembling the shed, note the corner braces, reinforcing timber around the door frame and across the shed ends (see photo 6 on shed photo page). That on the uprights needs to be attached later when the runners are in place.

14) Fasten the eight foot lengths of 2"x2" timber onto the top of the shed sides so that they project out by four feet. If a longer rail is required so that that roof can be moved further back from the shed so as not to obscure vision then use twelve foot lengths. This will be necessary if one end of the shed faces south. It is also possible to extend out by an extra foot or two by using extra sections of 2"x2" in the centre of the shed.

15) Erect the fence posts at the end of the rails, against their inside. Fasten a level tie-bar of 2"x2" between the posts so that the rails rest on it and are themselves level. Fasten together. I would put concrete around the post spikes once they are in position.

16) Fasten the strips of 1"x½" onto the outer edge of the rails and onto this fasten the plastic angle strips using small round head screws either on top near to the inside edge of the strips or on the sides. A finished rail and the tie bar between the posts can be seen in photo 7 & photo 8.

17) Remove the extra ship lap from the gable ends (see 3). Now you will need help to lift each roof section onto the rails. I placed each section so that it overlapped its end of the shed.

18) When the roof is in place, is square and runs smoothly on the rails you can fit a tie-bar across between the roofing panels. It important that you consider where the telescope will rest when not in use before you position these ties, mine are about 28" from each end (see photo 9 & photo 10). They would need to be closer to the ends for a larger telescope.

19) When the tie-bars are in place remove the temporary battens from the inside ends of the roof sections so that they can now close together.

20) Now fasten battens parallel to the ridge from the tie bar to the gable end frame as in photo 9 & photo 11. After waxing of the plastic rails the roof should now slide easily.

21) The shiplap removed from the gable ends can now be replaced after trimming the ends if necessary to allow for the rails.

22) The roof fastening hooks can now be attached (photo 12 & photo13). Note the extra 4"x1" in the corners to facilitate attachment of the eyelets (see photo 12 on shed photo page).

23) Use PVC pond liner to cover the roof leaving a generous overlap all the way round. Fasten it to the underside or edges of the roof but for now don't fasten or tuck round the liner where the two roof sections meet. If you have to fasten it down from the top use roofing caps with integral seals.

24) Using 4"x1" timber cut two lengths that will form a weather-board to overlap the roof join (see photo 5 on shed photo page). Angle the ridge joints to butt each other accurately. Drill holes at regular intervals along the edge which be fastened onto the roof.

25) Determine which roof section is most exposed to the prevailing weather. On this section run a length of thin rope right over the roof near the closing edge, let the rope overhang each side of the roof by a few inches (see photo 14 on shed photo page). Fasten the rope in place with 3 wire staples on each side. Now turn the liner back over the rope all along the edge and screw the weather-boards in place.

26) Use plastic angle strip along the inside edge of the roof join to protect the PVC liner on opening and closing the roof. It also helps to hold the liner in place

27) Finish the roof edges with plastic or wooden trim. For security reasons I put ship-lap over the window. I also put extra battens along the uprights inside the shed.

These notes are for guidance only and may contain inaccuracies.